The village comes into view quite suddenly, since it nestles among trees. The whole of the way from Manolates - through woods with the blue sea spread out at your feet - is delightful.

Stavrinides today has a, mostly aged, population of 93. In 1951, the figure was 273, in 1961, 216, in 1971, 141, and in 1981, 136. The reduction in the population has thus been very rapid, and if measures are not taken by the state, in a little while the village will be deserted.

The local coffee shop serves coffee and soft drinks, and if you are very hungry, the owner will produce fried eggs and a country salad, which will cost you very little.

The old people of the village - those who are still capable of getting about - will greet you cordially and start a coversation with you - in Greek, of course. If you do not understand them, they will continue to talk, saying that it is a pity that you do not speak their language so that they could tell you about their complaints !

There are fairs held at this village in summer, and from time to time young businessmen try their hand at opening seasonal establishments such as tavernas, roast meat shops, and so on.

At Stavrinides you should sample the souma, produced locally and distilled in the traditional manner. Each year, in early November the private " wineries " boil up the skins, etc. from the grapes from which they have extracted the wine for the family, to produce the souma by the process of distillation.

If you happen to be on Samos at that time of year, it is worth going up to Stavrinides on an evening when they are drawing off the souma.

You will be able to join in the merrymaking to the sound of the bouzouki and guitar as songs about the joys and sorrows of life are sung and the souma is drunk piping hot as it comes out of the stills.

If the local people notice you, you will certáinly be invited to join in, to drink, to eat and to dance.

Saying farewell to Stavrinides, we follow the road to the right to Ambelos.