Leaving behind Pyrgos, we follow the road to the north and at a distance of some six kilometres we come to the village of Mesogheia, once called Kato Arvanites.

Today the village has a population of 209, while in 1951, it was 334, in 1961, 310, in 1971, 234, and in 1981, 204.

Tradition narrates that two brothers who were woodcutters came with their families from Albania and established themselves near the southern summit of Mt. Ambelos, 400 metres above sea - level, on the site of the present - day village of Pandrosos.

There they lived cut off from all the rest of the island's inhabitants. They were Christians and spoke a language, lllyrian, which was incomprehensible to the Samiots.

Many years later, some of the descendants of the first settlers moved a little lower down from the village and built, about one kilometre away, the village known as Mesogheia.

Both Mesogheia and Pandrosos stand in enchanting locations, but in the winter the residents have to put up with bitter cold. The place is extremely rugged and its people are very hard - working, and, since they breathe the purest of air, tend to be healthy and long - lived.

The village of Pandrosos currently has a population of 179. In 1951, it was 544, in 1961, 504, in 1971, 361, and in 1981, 262.

The people of both villages are very welcoming to strangers and speak a dialect of their own in which the vowels are drawn out.

The village has coffee shops in the traditional style and tavernas.

If we follow a country track which leads towards Mt. Ambelos, we come, after approximately six kilometres, passing through dense woodland, to the Chapel of the Prophet Elijah.

From there the view over the area is somewhere between superb and magical. It is a good place for photography, relaxation and reflection.

We can then follow another track to reach the village of Manolates, some seven kilometres away, which we have described on a previous route.

This is a route which is well worth following, provided that you are suitably equipped.